rajasthan – Ankahi. Unsaid.

Suratgarh desert sojourn

June 19, 2026Posted in Culture and Heritage, Heritage, photography, Treks. Travels. Outdoors.Tagged 2026, Archeologiy, Blacksmiths, camel, desert, Excavation, Gadiya, Kalibangan, Lohar, Nomads, rajasthan, Rangmahal, Suratgarh, WandrersLeave a comment

Far away from their barren sandy homeland, a group of wandering Gadiya Lohars (Blacksmiths) are surviving in this fierce desert carrying on with their traditional craft of making iron tools, utensils, and household items. Having given up their traditional wooden carts and the cattle, this hardy nomadic tribe has also abandoned their traditional costume and intricately carved silver jewellery, worn by both women and men. Near the archaeological site of Rangmahal, close to the Kalibangan Indus valley excavations, we spotted three families beating the hot metal in an unforgiving space that was scorching at 45 degrees at 12 noon. The only cover they had from the sun and heat was the shade created by their cots. Their carts are now adapted and fashioned from discarded tempo or truck metal bodies, pulled by cows that also provide milk. Parked in an empty space in this small village along the highway, these carts serve as homes, workplaces and life for the itinerants. Barely able to manage their lives Gadiya children are not admitted to schools because they lack a domicile certificate. <Suratgarh sojourn-Rangmahal-Kalibangan>

Mirchi Pakoras in searing heat

June 17, 2026June 17, 2026Posted in DelhiTagged rajasthan, 2026, Pakora, Mirchi, delicacy, breakfast, heat, SuratgarhLeave a comment

Suratgarh, Rajasthan – It was just about 9:00 in the morning. Outside temperature was already a notch above 41 Celsius. One could feel the scorching loo and the intensely shining sun. I could hardly open my eyes or look up at the bland sky. Scarcely anyone was on the road. Other than the halwais and a few kiryana stores the market was shut and quiet. A few shops had their shutters half-open while the townspeople were still deciding whether to step out or not. Along with the searing breeze came the tempting smell of frying pakoras. A few people waited patiently outside the Pawan Namkeen Bhandar which is famous for its Mirchi Pakoras, Mirchi Kachoris, and spiced-up paneer pakoras. One must surrender to such temptations and dare to step out of the car even at the risk of heat-stroke. Also, the fiery breath of the Thar desert can only be countered with blazing ‘mirchi vada’ as they are called here. While the famous Mathania chilli from Western Rajasthan awaits GI recognition, the entire belt of Hanumangarh, Sangaria, Bikaner, Sri Ganganagar, Jodhpur and Surathgarh is famous for its fried Namkeen savories and hot chilli products.

Mirchi pakoras being friend in oil, Suratgarh, Rajasthan

Putli Bai

October 24, 2025Posted in DelhiTagged 2025, diwali, diya, Festival, folk, light, putlibai, rajasthanLeave a comment

Putli Bai was faster than a twister, a tornado. I watched her 45 minute performance in Udaipur. Her admirers watched her from a distance, her whirlwind like Ghoomar performance could shock and throw the audience off-balance leaving an indelible memory of that mesmerizingly rhythmic dancer. Every time I look at a Rajasthani folk artist I am reminded of Putli Bai, her big khol-lined eyes, the silver jewellery covering every inch of her skin, the whirling black skirt, the long shining-braid, the red alta-coated soles and dozens of bichiya or toe rings that embellished her toes. This cutester, though, was born in a Chinese village and is still learning the tricks of the trade but I love her action frozen in time. Some friends are special who bring memory-tickling Diwali gifts. Thanks “…”