Most of us walk a metaphorical tightrope in life, but this brave teenager, from the Nat tribe literally walks one high above Chandni Chowk risking her life to feed her family of six and support an alcoholic father. Below her, her mother operates a music system from a parked rickshaw with her head hung low, desperately holding out plates and even pushing a digital QR code toward smartphone users, yet hardly anyone stops to fling a few coins for her daughters’ daredevilry. “My daughter has fallen a couple of times and even broken a bone, but what to do,” the mother tells me. She is unhappy exposing her daughter and herself to ogling eyes. “My tribe has been doing this for ages. We eat here, rest and work her for over 10 hours with no access to a ladies’ toilet. At night we go to our shack near the railway station.” From the jhalliwallas to palledars, daily-wage laborers, helpers, runners, guards, acrobats and dozens of other menial workers throng this busy street, which has been bustling with activity for nearly 400 years now. <In Chandni Chowk, a week before> ‘पुरानी दिल्ली: साझा संस्कृति का सफ़र’ from @Leftword.com
If there is one street, one bazaar in our city that epitomizes shared heritage and secular values, it is Chandni Chowk in Purani Delhi (पुरानी दिल्ली). Look at this beautiful sight: the golden dome of Shree Sis Ganj Gurdwara Sahib as seen from inside the Sunehri Masjid right next to it. The Masjid is being repaired – special niches were added to enhance the view – and look at the कंगूरे (Crenellations) on top of the wall, the decorative element of a mosque’s outer wall. Ah, something to behold in Purani Delhi: a living example of साझा संस्कृति का सफर for nearly 400 years now. In less than a 700-meter stretch, people of different faiths celebrate their religious beliefs and ideologies in brotherhood, while respecting each other’s space. Starting at the eastern corner of Chandni Chowk we see the Digambar Jain Lal Mandir, which touches the Gauri Shankar temple. Walk 150 meters diagonally and we find the Central Baptist Church. Diagonally across another 100 meters is the Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib which shares a common wall with the Sunehri Masjid. Lastly, walk another five hundred meters to face the beautiful Fatehpuri masjid, built in 1650 by Fatehpuri Begum, the emperor’s wife. In my book पुरानी दिल्ली: साझा संस्कृति का सफर you will find this and many other stories of Purani Delhi. Available from Leftword.com and also on Amazon.
Ashadha heralds the monsoon, a time when sadhus or wandering minstrels traditionally paused their travels and sought shelter. Fanning them to offer relief from uncomfortable heat was considered a vital act of service. Thus it became a tradition to donate colourful pankhis during this month.This historically important Indian airing/cooling tool evolved from simple woven palm or bamboo leaves to ornate embroidered portable artifacts made from cloth. This fan too was a part of the giveaway during the month of Ashadh together with sweet water-milk and poori-chhole. The pankhi offers immediate relief from intense summer heat and monsoon humidity and it was believed that donating a pankha during Ashadha earns immense spiritual merit. Historically, it provided comfort to the travellers during the rainy season. This supposed pious act is believed to wash away sins and bring blessings of prosperity. This Pankhi or Pankha was the fan, cooler, and AC all-in-one for our parents’ generation until about the late 1950s.
A pankhi refers to a small, plumed, or intricately designed hand fan, while pankha is the broader Hindi term that generally describes all types of fans (both manual and electric).Handcrafted, lightweight bamboo woven fans require no electricity, making them ideal for power outages or while sitting on the porch. The decorative or embroidered pankhis often feature intricate zari, mirror work, or deity motifs, commonly used in prayer rooms or given as wedding favors. In those days these were powered by another USB called Universal Strong Bazzu.
“All India Radio Suratgarh welcomes you to the Cotton City Channel on 918 kilohertz. You can listen to our programmes on Medium Wave and AM frequencies.”
It had been ages since I entered an AIR studio. The last time, I recorded a Radio Play and this time, I recorded Memories, trust me it was fun. The visit was courtesy of brother Raajesh Chadha who served as the Programme Director here for nearly 36 years. During his illustrious career Raajesh’s baritone was much in demand as evidenced by over 500 trophies displayed at his home (picture).
What I thought was a small station, with just about three studios, turned out to be broadcasting on a massive 300 kW transmitter which reaches far beyond India’s borders (AIR Delhi uses only 200 kW). It is one of the most clearly heard Indian radio stations in Central Europe during the winter months. The station relays news, film songs, phone-in programs, world round-up, and Rajasthani folk belted out under the tag line “One voice. A billion hearts.” Programmes for local farmers include weather updates, crop prices, and expert advice on modern farming techniques.
Known as “Cotton City” and “Bowl of grain” of Rajasthan, Suratgarh is 77 km south of its district headquarters Sri Ganganagar city. Maharaja Surat Singh founded the city. Hindi, Bagri, Rajasthani and Punjabi are the widely spoken languages of the city. Well connected with decent highways and a railway station Suratgarh still awaits air connectivity. Other than the desert heat and the sandy dust I am certain the city would be a pleasant place in winters. Thanks bhai for our picture in the studio. <Suratgarh sojourn>
Suratgarh was a significant arena of historical incidents in the ancient past. The city was once called Sodal. Around 3000 BC Suratgarh is believed to have been a lush, green place due to the presence of two big rivers, Sarasvati and Drishadvati. Present sand possessed various botanical and zoological species within the basins of chaste Sarasvati and Drishvati. The emergence of Kalibangan and Barod civilizations was facilitated by the geographical and environmental complements of the Sarasvati, and Suratgarh was a noteworthy testimony to this. The traces of ancient civilization near Rangmahal, Manaksaar and Amarpura show the historical significance of Suratgarh where the Sarasvati civilization receded after 1500 years of stability.
Suratgarh developed greatly under the rule of Maharaja Ganga Singh who built a hunting lodge at Suratgarh and ensured the connectivity of Suratgarh to the train service. Hanumangarh and Bikaner came under the Suratgarh District when the district was established. Establishment of the Ganges Canal in 1927 helped Suratgarh develop; it became a city after partition when refugees from Pakistan came and settled here. An air and military base station, Akashvani and various offices have been established at Suratgarh.
Suratgarh, Rajasthan – It was just about 9:00 in the morning. Outside temperature was already a notch above 41 Celsius. One could feel the scorching loo and the intensely shining sun. I could hardly open my eyes or look up at the bland sky. Scarcely anyone was on the road. Other than the halwais and a few kiryana stores the market was shut and quiet. A few shops had their shutters half-open while the townspeople were still deciding whether to step out or not. Along with the searing breeze came the tempting smell of frying pakoras. A few people waited patiently outside the Pawan Namkeen Bhandar which is famous for its Mirchi Pakoras, Mirchi Kachoris, and spiced-up paneer pakoras. One must surrender to such temptations and dare to step out of the car even at the risk of heat-stroke. Also, the fiery breath of the Thar desert can only be countered with blazing ‘mirchi vada’ as they are called here. While the famous Mathania chilli from Western Rajasthan awaits GI recognition, the entire belt of Hanumangarh, Sangaria, Bikaner, Sri Ganganagar, Jodhpur and Surathgarh is famous for its fried Namkeen savories and hot chilli products.
Mirchi pakoras being friend in oil, Suratgarh, Rajasthan
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