india – Ankahi. Unsaid.

‘Mughal Sarai’ of Gharaunda

September 9, 2026September 9, 2026Posted in Art, Culture and Heritage, Heritage, history, photographyTagged 2026, asia, europe, Gharaunda, history, india, mughal, Panipat, Remains, Sarai, Travel, TurrentsLeave a comment

Gharaunda sounds like a dainty toyhouse or a dollhouse-like nest, offering the safety of a mother’s hug. I wonder who named this small town in Karnal district as Gharaunda—a town desperately trying to unhinge itself from its past and join the mainstream madness of our stunted cities. Located on NH44, the town is choking not only with dense habitation and heavy traffic but also with the petroleum fumes that permeate its air.

Nearly 400 years ago, the Tughlaqs, the Lodis, and then the Mughals cleared part of the dense jungle to create a road connecting Bengal to Afghanistan and from there to Uzbekistan, Iran and beyond. Along the road they built Kos Minars, piaos, and Sarais. While some of the Kos Minars still survive, most of the sarais have scummbed to time or illegal occupation.

One dazzling Sarai defied all and has stood tall through the centuries – in fact it looks as fresh as the day its three stories were constructed. It is one of the finest examples of decorative brick structures that have survived the test of time and the onsualght of expanding urban areas.

The ‘Mughal Sarai,’ as it is called, is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India, though it is ill-maintained. A narrow lane leads to the vibrantly amazing structure; however, the front facade of which can’t be seen or photographed in totality because there is very little depth available. Crane your neck hard to see the tall circular turrets on each end of the gateway. The western portion of the Southern gateway, part of which has fallen apart, appears to be an Ebrahim Alkazi theatre set where a Mughal dastan is set to be played.

Built in 1637 AD by Feroz Khan during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, this quadrangular Sarai (rest house) naturally came to be named after the Mughals. The historic site of Gharaunda, where the Sarai stands, also served as a campsite for Babur prior to the First Battle of Panipat.

Today, two of these three-story gateways still stand within the area, positioned roughly 100 metres apart along the remains of the Northern and Southern walls. Constructed from traditional Lakhauri bricks, these structures feature an enclosed design with cells lining all four sides of the quadrangle. The surviving gateways are highly ornate, decorated with intricate panels, balconies, rounded towers, and angular flutes.

A must visit site if you are passing by Karnal or surrounding areas.

कभी न खत्म होने वाला सफ़र – ‘यार मेरा हज करा दे’

July 12, 2026July 12, 2026Posted in Books Memoirs, Of Family & FriendsTagged book, hindi, india, journey, Lahore, Nostalgia, Pakistan, Parents, Partition, PastLeave a comment

संजय कुंदन द्वारा पुस्तक समीक्षा

भारत-पाकिस्तान के रिश्तों पर राजनीति ने जितनी कहानियाँ लिखी हैं, उनसे कहीं अधिक कहानियाँ आम लोगों की स्मृतियों में सुरक्षित हैं। वे कहानियाँ बताती हैं कि सरहदें नक्शों पर खिंचती हैं, दिलों पर नहीं। राजिन्दर अरोरा की ‘यार मेरा हज करा दे’ ऐसी ही एक सच्ची कहानी है, जिसमें बहुचर्चित फिल्म ‘ मैं वापस आऊंगा’ के बुजुर्ग की तरह एक बूढ़े पिता की लाहौर लौटने की इच्छा, विभाजन की त्रासदी, साझा संस्कृति और मनुष्यता के गहरे रिश्तों का मार्मिक आख्यान बन जाती है। भले हीं यहां लौटने की इच्छा का सबब फिल्म की तरह प्रेम और उसकी स्मृतियां न हो। अपने बचपन के शहर की ओर लौटना ऐसी ही एक यात्रा है, जिसमें रास्ते से ज़्यादा स्मृतियाँ साथ चलती हैं। यह किताब स्मृति, विस्थापन और मनुष्यता की उस साझा विरासत की खोज है, जिसे कोई सरहद बाँट नहीं सकता।

पुस्तक समीक्षाः कभी न खत्म होनेवाला सफर- यार मेरा हज करा दे

All India Radio Suratgarh

June 20, 2026Posted in DelhiTagged 2026, asia, Cotton_City, history, india, Radio, rajasthan, Studio, Suratgarh, TravelLeave a comment

– ये आकाशवाणी है –

“All India Radio Suratgarh welcomes you to the Cotton City Channel on 918 kilohertz. You can listen to our programmes on Medium Wave and AM frequencies.”

It had been ages since I entered an AIR studio. The last time, I recorded a Radio Play and this time, I recorded Memories, trust me it was fun. The visit was courtesy of brother Raajesh Chadha who served as the Programme Director here for nearly 36 years. During his illustrious career Raajesh’s baritone was much in demand as evidenced by over 500 trophies displayed at his home (picture).

What I thought was a small station, with just about three studios, turned out to be broadcasting on a massive 300 kW transmitter which reaches far beyond India’s borders (AIR Delhi uses only 200 kW). It is one of the most clearly heard Indian radio stations in Central Europe during the winter months. The station relays news, film songs, phone-in programs, world round-up, and Rajasthani folk belted out under the tag line “One voice. A billion hearts.” Programmes for local farmers include weather updates, crop prices, and expert advice on modern farming techniques.

Known as “Cotton City” and “Bowl of grain” of Rajasthan, Suratgarh is 77 km south of its district headquarters Sri Ganganagar city. Maharaja Surat Singh founded the city. Hindi, Bagri, Rajasthani and Punjabi are the widely spoken languages of the city. Well connected with decent highways and a railway station Suratgarh still awaits air connectivity. Other than the desert heat and the sandy dust I am certain the city would be a pleasant place in winters. Thanks bhai for our picture in the studio. <Suratgarh sojourn>

Suratgarh was a significant arena of historical incidents in the ancient past. The city was once called Sodal. Around 3000 BC Suratgarh is believed to have been a lush, green place due to the presence of two big rivers, Sarasvati and Drishadvati. Present sand possessed various botanical and zoological species within the basins of chaste Sarasvati and Drishvati. The emergence of Kalibangan and Barod civilizations was facilitated by the geographical and environmental complements of the Sarasvati, and Suratgarh was a noteworthy testimony to this. The traces of ancient civilization near Rangmahal, Manaksaar and Amarpura show the historical significance of Suratgarh where the Sarasvati civilization receded after 1500 years of stability.

Suratgarh developed greatly under the rule of Maharaja Ganga Singh who built a hunting lodge at Suratgarh and ensured the connectivity of Suratgarh to the train service. Hanumangarh and Bikaner came under the Suratgarh District when the district was established. Establishment of the Ganges Canal in 1927 helped Suratgarh develop; it became a city after partition when refugees from Pakistan came and settled here. An air and military base station, Akashvani and various offices have been established at Suratgarh.

The Guardians of Dabwali on the Road to Suratgarh

June 15, 2026June 15, 2026Posted in Art, Culture and Heritage, Treks. Travels. Outdoors.Tagged adventure, Aunt, drive, india, nature, Pappu_Khatri, Rajastha, Travel, writingLeave a comment

Her name is Raksha Kaur. She stands firm, guarding her precious corner at the tri-junction of Haryana, Punjab, and Rajasthan along NH 54 in Dabwali. In a corner of her house, Raksha runs a tiny store selling ‘Maniyari’ items; maniyari roughly translates to cosmetics and jewellery for women. Face cream, powder, lipstick, plastic pearl strings, rings with colourful stones, ear tops and cheap plastic toys sit on a sagging cot. Across her house two large banyan trees, older than Raksha, stand guard over her brick house and provide much-needed shade in this near-desert land. As a light drizzle and a cool breeze make for a pleasant drive, we witness a quieter battle unfolding at this bustling cross-roads.

Here, Raksha’s son, Pappu Khatri, runs a rudimentary tea stall on a prime plot of land. It is a piece of history; Raksha’s husband bought these 500 yards back in 1955 for the then-princely sum of ninety rupees. Decades later, when the highway cut through their property, more than half of their house was acquired, leaving them with a meagre compensation of just 5,000 rupees. Now, the real-estate mafia eyes the remaining land – prime corner property on the highway. The mother and son are currently battling a court case built on fictitious claims designed to dislodge them. Armed only with meagre resources but boundless resilience, this feisty duo refuses to back down.

Leaving Dabwali behind, the countryside opens up into amazing vistas as the excellent highway stretches toward Hanumangarh and Suratgarh. We are heading to meet my ailing aunt, but our journey will also take us deep into the past at Kalibangan. This 4,000-year-old site was once a provincial capital of the Indus Valley Civilization, perched on the left bank of the now-dried-up Ghaggar River. Today, this seasonal, monsoon-fed river has changed its course, flowing 50 km further west along a firm bund that stretches from Himachal Pradesh before finally terminating in the sands of the Thar Desert.

Once summer gives way to the monsoon and a cooler breeze flows over this rugged land I will come back and spend a day or two with these people to learn more about their lives and write a story about them. Till then, take care, Raksha ji and Pappu Khatri. The tea was precisely to my taste, delicious – for which Pappu Khatri refused to take money.

Piprahwa Gems and Relics of the Buddha

April 8, 2026Posted in DelhiTagged 2026, asia, Buddha, Culture, Delhi, exhibition, Gems, Heritage, history, india, Kapilavastu, news, Piprahwa, Relics, TravelLeave a comment

An excellent opportunity to promote the importance of the Science of Archaeology was wasted amid the din of overemphasizing faith. Bringing home the gems and relics of Buddha may indeed be a cause for celebration, yet the audio-videos were focussed only on the present master and the government of the day. In a text panel buried under heavy jargon is a line that says these relics have been ‘acquired by the Godrej Group through an innovative public-private partnership.’ Also, can the museum manager please buy a better megaphone for the guide and ask the gentleman to speak more softly? Seriously, it’s not a wedding venue!! Besides the gems and the relics – my find of the day was Elizabeth Brunner’s Walking Buddha (oil on woven mat) which transforms the Buddha-pada into dynamic steps with its soft forward march, and the Buddha painting by none other than Nandalal Bose. Do visit the show, only three weeks left of what is called as Piprahwa gems exhibition but is officially named ‘The Light of the Lotus: Relics of the Awakened One’, at the Qila Rai Pithora Fort and Cultural Complex, Lado Sarai on Press Enclave Marg, in Delhi. *Piprahwa, in Siddharthnagar, U.P. is what was known as Kapilavastu.

The official statement posted by PIB on: 02 JAN 2026 says
The Ministry of Culture is hosting a landmark exposition showcasing the Piprahwa Relics, Reliquaries and Gem Relics, recently repatriated to India, at the Rai Pithora Cultural Complex. The exposition is set to be inaugurated by the Prime Minister, Shri Narendra Modi on 3rd January 2026 at 11.00 AM.
This historic event marks the reunification of the Piprahwa gem relics of Lord Buddha, repatriated after 127 years, with relics, gem relics, and reliquaries from 1898 and then 1971-1975 excavations at the Piprahwa site.
The exposition, titled “The Light and the Lotus: Relics of the Awakened One,” thematically showcases relevant antiquities and works of art from several cultural institutions under the Ministry of Culture. These relics represent the most extensive assemblage attributed to the Buddha, symbolizing profound philosophical meaning, masterful craftsmanship, and global spiritual significance. The exhibition features over 80 objects spanning the 6th century BCE to the present, including sculptures, manuscripts, thangkas, and ritual objects.
This unprecedented gathering commemorates the Ministry of Culture’s successful repatriation of the relics in July 2025, achieved through a public-private partnership, halting an auction at Sotheby’s Hong Kong. For the first time since the 1898 excavation, the exposition brings together:

Relics from the 1898 Kapilavastu excavation
Treasures from the 1972 excavations
Reliquaries and jewelled treasures from the Indian Museum, Kolkata
Recently repatriated relics from the Peppé family collection
Monolithic Stone Coffer within which the gem relics and reliquaries were originally found.

The sacred Buddha relics were discovered in 1898 by William Claxton Peppé at the ancient stupa of Kapilavastu. Following their discovery, portions were distributed globally, with one part gifted to the King of Siam, another taken to England, and a third preserved at the Indian Museum, Kolkata. In 2025, the Peppé family portion was repatriated through decisive intervention by the Ministry of Culture, supported by Buddhist communities worldwide.
The exposition underscores India’s role as the birthplace of Buddhism and reinforces its position as a global spiritual and cultural leader. Under the leadership of Prime Minister Narendra Modi, India’s global engagement increasingly draws upon its civilizational and spiritual inheritance, 642 antiquities have been repatriated to India, with the return of the Piprahwa relics standing as a landmark achievement.

The inauguration will witness participation from Union Ministers, Ambassadors and members of the diplomatic corps, venerable Buddhist monks, senior government officials, scholars, heritage experts, esteemed members of the art fraternity, art aficionados, followers of Buddhism, and students.

The exposition reaffirms the Ministry’s commitment to heritage preservation and cultural leadership while celebrating India’s spiritual legacy and its significance as the birthplace of the Buddha Dhamma, reflecting India’s enduring commitment to preserving and sharing its civilizational heritage with the world.